Mar

13

El Altar: por el Camino de La Vaca por plena placa



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Esta es la tercera vez que regresamos, elegimos montar a caballo y caminar lo menos que podamos; mejor dicho, queríamos escalar más y caminar menos.

Volcán El Altar - Ecuador

La primera vez que fuimos a inspeccionar fueron dos días de solo soñar y soñar.

La segunda vez  pensamos quedarnos 9 días y en el transcurso de este tiempo fue esperar y desesperar por 5 días y medio; el resto del medio día se despejo y nos dejo soñar un poco más  y  al sexto día  escalamos un poquito. Fuí de primero para el primer largo, un largo que ya te advertía como iba a ser el resto de la pared y que nos dejo más intranquilos por que habíamos elegido una ruta con una línea muy vertical y de poca protección pero que sí dejaba subirle, sólo hay que escalar y no pensar en los seguros; para esto Jorge y Christian se convencieron de la línea escogida.

El clima parecía que mejoraba así es que nos preparamos para el séptimo día; pero cuando no es, no es… esa noche, esa madrugada, y esa mañana llovía y llovía  y nunca paró de llover, por lo que decidimos dar por terminado nuestro paseito.

La tercera vez solo fueron 4 días:

Ruta escalada El Altar

Día uno:

camino Altar

Cabalgamos como niños hasta  El Valle de Collanes , enseguida cargamos nuestras mochilas y a caminar se ha dicho, después de una hora llegamos al campamento ubicado a  20 minutos de la base  de la roca, el clima no era tan ideal, así es que con paciencia esperamos a que el Segundo día cambie.

Caminado

Día dos:

Nos inundamos un poco y el clima nos dió tregua para secar nuestras fundas de dormir y de paso arreglar la carpa, de nuevo el clima se dañó pero como no queríamos estar metidos en la carpa, decidimos caminar a la base de la roca y encontramos un lugar protegido del viento y de la lluvia; ahí  decidimos construir un terraplén pensando en la próxima vez que vendríamos para no venir con carpa, pero el clima no cambiaba mucho, así es que continuamos nuestra tarde de escalada con viento, frío y un poco de nieve.

escalar el altar

Decidimos escalar y de nuevo me tocó escalar de primero el primer largo; nervioso y con muchas ganas de escalar, comenzamos nuestra tarde. Para el Segundo Largo fué Jorge  Prado (Lonely) quién se escaló unos 25metritos asegurándose solo de piedras, la escalada no es difícil pero la exposición es parte de este pico. Así logramos por fin abrir nuestro segundo largo, la luz se acababa y decidimos regresar al campamento.

Día tres:

Carpas

Para el Tercer día salimos a las 8 de la mañana cargados con todo.  Cristian Moreno (El Raper) subió el primer largo de primero. El Segundo largo le tocó a Jorge  y el tercer  largo me tocó  ir de primero. De ahí en adelante todo era terreno nuevo y virgen.

Paisaje por El Altar

El tercer largo tiene unos 25 a 30 metros, tiene muchos alejes entre seguro y seguro; y no muchos cachos de roca son los ideales, así es que es mejor ir tranquilo. Me demoré un poco porque preferí poner un bolt de estación.

Escalando

En el cuarto largo (25 a 30mts.)  fué Raper de primero. De vez en cuando se encuentra una fisura y la mayoría de tiempo te aseguras a unos chuchos o cachos de roca que por suerte siempre aparecen en los lugares ideales para poner una estación y dar seguro a nuestros compañeros.

El quinto largo le tocó a Lonely, escaló unos 50 metros de un 6a, un poco más duro puede ser , pero como en todos los largos hasta ahora la protección es la que manda, no tienes que pensar porque si piensas no sigues escalando.

Equipo en la cumbre

Para el sexto largo ya nos sentíamos cerca de la cumbre solo faltan dos largos más. A las 6 y 20 pm emocionados por el increible día de escalada  que tuvimos llegamos a la cumbre de la Aguja que le bautizamos con el Nombre de Monagillo y a Nuestra ruta con el nombre de “Por el camino de la Vaca por plena placa”.

Cumbre de la Aguja

Cumbre

En este viaje nos acompañó Pedro Montezuma, que fue el hombre del trabajo sucio, el hombre del Buril, quién fué armando  unas estaciones 5 estrellas por donde bajamos. Después de 9 rapeles llegamos alrededor de las 2 de la mañana. También nos acompaño Danilo Villavicencio que fue nuestro Chef.

El equipo

Y para terminar, el regreso en caballos que más podríamos pedir!!

About Daniel Carrión

Cuenca, Ecuador. Conocido por todos como El Bagre. Desde sus 14 años ha dedicado su vida a la escalada y a las montañas buscando siempre nuevos viajes y retos de grandes paredes. Durante su larga trayectoria, ha participado en varias competencias y expediciones y ha logrado resultados muy relevantes. Más información sobre Daniel Carrión.
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