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02

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Poder escalar en lugares en donde nadie o muy pocos han podido escalar es sin duda la mayor motivación para mi escalada. El reto es trazar vías que nos pongan a prueba sin importar cuan altas o cuanto grado han de tener las vías solo imaginarlo, hacerlo y disfrutarlo.  Buenas movidas’ buenos pegues’ buenas vías’’.

Pared Sur Nevado Chicon

Pared Sur Nevado Chicon

Entrando a la pared Este del Nevavado Capacsaya

Entrando a la pared Este del Nevado Capacsaya

La Cordillera de Urubamba es un lugar privilegiado para ello, ya que de las 15 montañas por encima de los 5mil metros hay muy pocas referencias y escaladas. Sobre todo en las montañas casi ocultas y solitarias de estos valles.

Cordillera Urubamba - Cuzco

Vista de la cordillera Urubamba – Cuzco

Escalando la cara Este del Nevado Pumahuanca

Escalando la cara Este del Nevado Pumahuanca

Escalando en la cara sur del Nevado Chicón

Escalando en la cara sur del Nevado Chicón

En los últimos 3 años esta hermosa cordillera en cuestión de escalada ha dado un gran salto para arriba convirtiéndose sin duda en un gran lugar para disfrutar de la escalada. Sumando el esfuerzo con los amigos escaladores locales hemos abierto muchas vías deportivas desde el vº hasta un par de proyectos de 8ª.

Escalador

escaladores-peru

Increíbles sectores de escalada de todos los tipos para apretar en ellos. También se han abierto buenos sectores de bloque en los alrededores de Urubamba y en las comunidades locales al pie de la Montaña. High walls y muchas vías.

 

Se puede empezar probando las vías del sector de LAMAY en donde la gente del gym 7ª en cusco y muchos otros escaladores han equipado varias vías. Un buen proyecto que sigue en pie por este sector es la ruta los changos que equipamos con Carlos ly (más información aquí).

arin-las-torres escalada-sector-arin

En el sector de ARIN en las torres’ abrimos una vía muy bonita 6b+ en el espolón más sur en cordada con mi amigo Matt de los estados, la vía debe tener unos 120mts  y se escala en tradicional. Todo este sector de las torres tiene mucho potencial para escalar. El acceso es largo pero la escalada paga por ello.

Sector Pumahuanca con rutas como Chango mandango 7ª+ o Super chango

Luego los sectores más explosivos como el sector de PUMAHUANCA con rutas como Chango mandango 7ª+ o Super chango que está en proyecto pero parece que va por el octavo y Chango Bongo 7c ¿? Buenas vías’.

escalando en el sector Medinayoc - Perú

El sector MEDINAYOC donde hay varias vías de diferente tipo como placas, fisuras y desplomes rutas buenas como No siesta en el Valle 7ª que equipo el Dominique antes de que llegara su taladro’ pero que se convirtió en un clásico y nos hizo apretar la entrada y ajustar la salida para encadenarla. En este sector hay varios proyectos y varias vías duras por abrir como en el sector la COBRA.

curva-del-diablo-yanahuara-4 curva-del-diablo-yanahuara-1 curva-del-diablo-yanahuara-2 curva-del-diablo-yanahuara-3

Las clásicas deportivas que siempre hay que ajustar están en el sector la curva del diablo en Yanahuara en donde las primeras rutas de 35 – 40 metros las equiparon Ario y Temoche  y luego una buena comitiva junto con Marco y la gente del curso de la casa de guías de Huaraz  abrimos unas cuantas vías más.

Ollantaytamb Camino a Ollantaytambo sector las Torres - Perú

Camino a Ollantaytambo otro nuevo sector  LAS TORRES en donde hay rutas variadas para escalas desde el v hasta rutas de tres cuatro largos de hasta 7mo. Y mucho, mucho más para equipar….

Las Torres - Perú Escalando en el sector las Torres - Perú Jorge Galvéz - Las Torres

Lo más exigente y  de alto calibre en cuanto a la escalda es sin duda los itinerarios de escalada alpina en los farallones o pilares de roca que rodean casi todos los macizos de la cordillera.  Se han abierto rutas en tradicional  en el sector de los pilares norte del nevado chicón con excelentes accesos para disfrutar la escalada de un día. También en los pilares del cerro sin nombre en el sector de enfrente del nevado halancoma rutas de hasta 120mts en roca solida. Rutas también en las alturas de Ollantaytambo camino al abra Málaga y más proyectos…

 

En Montaña hay mucho por escalar y aperturar todavía’ vírgenes paredes y canaletas de hielo. Esta temporada que paso ha habido data de excelentes escaladas como la apertura de una nueva ruta a la cumbre central del chicón por unos amigos alemanes (Fotos: Cris).

Colque Cruz y Cumbre Sahuasiray, Perú colque-cruz-cumbre-sahuasiray-2

El intento al Colque cruz y la cumbre del Sahuasiray por Nate y Crispin (fotos: Nate Heald).

Sahuasiray Sahuasiray, Perú

Ysin duda un sinfín de proyectos que vengo trabajando en equipo con diferentes escaladores que viven por aquí que van y vienen también.  el  Pumahuanca por la oeste, la cara sur del chicón, la apertura de la noroeste del capacsaya, la cara sur del colque cruz, la sur del Sirihuani, la travesía del halancoma al igual que su cara sur, entre muchas más.

donde-escalar-peru-4 donde-escalar-peru-1 donde-escalar-peru-2 donde-escalar-peru-3

Esto es para nunca acabar’’ por eso se los cuento Y  a lo mejor su próximo viaje de escalada se lo organizan para la cordillera de URUBAMBA aquí en CUSCO –PERÚ.

Gracias a todos los amigos y a todo TATOO que han hecho posible que el valle este lleno de vías. Con esa motivación y todo ese power  hacen que siempre vayan apareciendo nuevos proyectos’… nuevas vías y muchos más sueños  verticales!

Jorge Galvéz

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About Jorge Gálvez

Lima, Perú. Conocido como Coqui, Jorge Gálvez es un montañista con varios años de experiencia en escalada en roca y en hielo. Este amante de la naturaleza y las montañas tiene como pasión encontrar nuevas cumbres y coronarlas, en la mayoría de casos en solitario. Integrante de la primera expedición peruana en conseguir una cumbre en el Himalaya escalando la cumbre principal del Shishapangma 8047msnm. Más información sobre Jorge Gálvez.
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